FASHION/BEAUTY
Contact: Carol Bryant
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Email: CarolBWriter@yahoo.com
Haughty Couture/Naughty Couture: The Intersexting of Fashion and Sexuality
By Carol Bryant, Staff Writer
Fall, 2010
Seduction. The mere mention of the word undoubtedly conjures up images of temptation, allure, smoldering images of want and desire, ultimately merging into a climactic burning of carnal yearning. Seduction: Stepping out of the bedroom and onto the catwalks. One of sexuality’s favorite nine-letter words struts her stuff across the thumbprint of designers and implores you to try and resist her.
The role of sexuality in mainstream fashion has reached a climax. A night of television channel surfing illustrates this trend in motion. From Carrie Bradshaw on ‘Sex and the City’ to Bette Porter on ‘The L Word,’ we as consumers are smitten with the intensity, power struggle, and dare we admit it, revealing fashions our female protagonists subliminally beckon to us week after week. Who amongst us hasn’t pined for a pair of Manolo Blahnik’s after watching Sarah Jessica Parker pine for Mr. Big, an aptly applied sexual innuendo of a name. Fashion is no stranger to sexuality. For over 250 years, in fact, the intertwining of these two mediums has proven itself successful time and again.
“Sexuality sells. We live in a society where nudity (or almost nudity) is conscious. It has not been our cultural norm to show excessive skin in public. When some of the body parts that are supposed to be hidden become exposed, this grabs people’s attention,” Professor Yuni Kawamura, Ph.D, of Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, relates. “Advertisers and marketers obviously need that attention in the very competitive world of fashion. Because we are not accustomed to seeing them in our everyday life, this becomes very effective. Once a certain level of discomfort subsides, the need arises for them (advertisers/marketers) to create something even more provocative. As a result, the images become increasingly erotic and sexy.”
Flipping through the pages of a favorite fashion and beauty magazine, such as VESTITURE, we as a culture find ourselves immersed in the promise and allure of adventure, joy, growth, and having the world at our fingertips. A subculture of sexuality’s influence on fashion has thus taken hold, and historically it appears she won’t be releasing her reigns anytime soon. “Our society is saturated with sexually-implicit and explicit materials. Our eyes become numb and even desensitized to those materials,” Professor Kawamura relates and continues, “In order for designers and advertisers to shock us as consumers, their level of intensity and outrageousness is raised. As a result, our sexual norms continue to lessen and become more liberal, meaning there are less restraints. The latter, however, is not a positive trend.”
Historically we see trends emerging. Fine-art photographer Judy Francesconi has captured women on film for more than 15 years. Best known for her classical, erotic calendars and lithographs, she has also self-published two books. The perspective from her lens focuses on women and eroticism. “Historically, advertising was geared towards men. The best way to capture a man’s attention and to entice him was through sex---that is, the suggestion and promise of sex. Women were subliminally targeted with messages of sex to ensure they held their husband’s interest and attention.” The goal of Judy’s photography is to portray love between women in a positive, emotional, affirming, sexual way. She continues, “Advertisers know how to play to our insecurities and our fantasies. It is all about creating a feeling, a desire.”
This desire and provocation is most evident in a showcase of fashion and seduction at the Museum at FIT in New York City, which runs until June 16, 2009. The exhibition boasts a wide chronologic sampling and variety of sexuality in fashion spanning 250 years. Gender bending, moral standards, social norms, and the emergence of sexuality as a fashion staple are all observed through the lens of time.
Colleen Hill, curator of the exhibit explains, “Through a strategic interplay of exposure and concealment, the seducer strives to entice, yet remains appropriately (and perhaps teasingly) modest. Terms such as the Temptress and the Vamp have been used to describe women who wear seductive dresses. The style of the male seducer is characterized by such terms as the Rebel and Macho. These terms, and the images they evoke, often personify the moods of their perspective eras.”
Thanks to celebrities such as Madonna, risque’ designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier have catapulted daring extremes into mainstream fashion. Pointy bustiere, anyone? A visitor to the Seduction exhibit at FITNYC can expect some eyebrow-raising surprises. In the 1950s, a time that beckons simplicity, designers such as Christian Dior are creating satin and velvet evening gowns. The intertwining of ladylike demure with post-war sexualized couture is evident in these pieces. One of the earliest pieces in the Seduction collection is a gown from circa 1785. The open-front bodice provides an aura of undress while providing maximum coverage.
Professor Kawamura explains J.C. Flugel’s Theory of the Shifting Erogenous Zone as it pertains to fashion. “The erogenous body part shifts from time to time with fashion trends. In the 50s, it was the small waist and accentuated bust. They might have been erotic and sexy in the beginning, but people get used to seeing them, so with time they are no longer erotic. The erogenous zone shifts. The body parts that were covered now raise people’s curiosity level, i.e. knees and thighs. The skirt length goes up.”
“Beware,” Professor Kawamua warns, “Fashion creates illusions and fantasies. Some women feel that sexuality is power, so that if they dress sexy, it empowers them. Face lifts and breast implants ensue, and many try to go against nature. We as a society are creating artificial and superficial beings.” Pushing the buttons of societal norms in the 80s and 90s, Calvin Klein featured naked models and endured fierce criticism for what many believed to be child pornography, but the end result was dialogue. People talk, sex sells, Calvin Klein was and continues to be a fashion mogul.
Consumers today are savvy and influenced by multiple factors, of which advertisers are keenly aware. As Professor Kawamura so elegantly states, “Today, consumers are not passive agents but active producers of fashion. They also have the power to influence industry professionals.” For more information on the Seduction show at FITNYC, visit www.fitnyc.edu. To learn more about the works of Judy Francesconi, visit www.judyfrancesconi.com.
WebMD Feature
By Carol Bryant
Reviewed By Louise Chang, MD
By now, most of us know that the glow and flawless finish on the faces of celebrities and super models isn’t all natural born beauty. Much of it begins with makeup primer and a good foundation.
Applying primer and foundation is pretty easy. Sorting through the promises, claims, colors, and choices of foundations and primers isn’t. WebMD went to makeup and skin experts to get their tips on what to look for in a primer and foundation.
What Is Makeup Primer?
If you’ve ever primed a wall for paint, you know that primer prepares the surface of the wall so that the paint goes on smoother and lasts longer. Makeup primer serves the same purpose on your face. It evens out the skin’s surface so that foundation makeup goes on better and lasts longer.
“Primers are expected to even out skin tone and get rid of sunken pores or scars while brightening the face,” says Philadelphia dermatologist Naheed Ali, MD. Primers can fill in fine lines, deeper wrinkles, and enlarged pores while minimizing the signs of aging.
“The idea is that tiny molecules settle into small lines and pores, giving the illusion of a smoother skin texture,” says Kerry-Lou Brehm, a Manhattan fashion district makeup artist. Primer can be worn by itself or under foundation.
What Is Foundation Makeup?
“Foundation makeup’s purpose is to even out skin color and cover blemishes and imperfections,” Brehm says. “The better the skin condition, the less foundation is needed.”
Foundations come in different shades and formulas. They also offer different benefits. Some moisturize dry skin. Oil-free formulas are best for skin that is prone to acne or breakouts. Some foundations contain silicone and others are water based. So if you are allergic to silicone, you have an alternative. Some nourish the skin in addition to improving its appearance.
Picking and Applying the Right Foundation for Your Needs
Foundation makeup is available in stick, liquid, pressed powder, cream, and mineral form. Most makeup brands offer foundation in sheer, light, medium, or full formulas.These guidelines can help you pick and put on foundation:
•
Liquid and cream foundations. “Most liquid [and cream] foundations do not give as much coverage as a stick foundation,” says Brehm. “They are typically lighter, so it’s a good idea to apply them with a foundation brush or sponge.”
Liquid and cream foundations. “Most liquid [and cream] foundations do not give as much coverage as a stick foundation,” says Brehm. “They are typically lighter, so it’s a good idea to apply them with a foundation brush or sponge.” •Stick foundations. “Stick foundation is typically heavier and provides more coverage than liquid foundation,” Brehm says. “When a good color match is found, the stick foundation can be applied directly only to areas that need the most coverage.” A slightly dampened sponge can help eradicate mistakes such as streakiness or uneven application.
Stick foundations. “Stick foundation is typically heavier and provides more coverage than liquid foundation,” Brehm says. “When a good color match is found, the stick foundation can be applied directly only to areas that need the most coverage.” A slightly dampened sponge can help eradicate mistakes such as streakiness or uneven application. •Pressed powders. These tend to provide heavier foundation coverage. If you are in your 40s or don’t want to advertise lines and wrinkles, however, avoid powder foundation or foundation with a shimmer. Apply powders dry with a clean puff or with a dampened sponge.
Pressed powders. These tend to provide heavier foundation coverage. If you are in your 40s or don’t want to advertise lines and wrinkles, however, avoid powder foundation or foundation with a shimmer. Apply powders dry with a clean puff or with a dampened sponge. •Mineral foundation. Although it resembles traditional loose powder, mineral foundation makeup is made with minerals and not talc. “Women with rosacea and skin sensitivities tend to like this type of makeup and find it gentle on the skin,” Brehm says.
Mineral foundation. Although it resembles traditional loose powder, mineral foundation makeup is made with minerals and not talc. “Women with rosacea and skin sensitivities tend to like this type of makeup and find it gentle on the skin,” Brehm says. Color Quandary: Which Foundation Shade Is Best for Me?
Foundations come in different skin shades. Matching your skin with the right shade isn’t always easy. Use these four steps to find the best match:
1.Choose the three closest shades to your natural skin color. A makeup artist at the cosmetics counter can assist you with this.
Choose the three closest shades to your natural skin color. A makeup artist at the cosmetics counter can assist you with this. 2.Dot the three shades along your jawbone area.
Dot the three shades along your jawbone area. 3.Look at them in an area with good daylight, even if that means going out to the parking lot with a hand mirror.
Look at them in an area with good daylight, even if that means going out to the parking lot with a hand mirror. 4.Select the one that looks closest to wearing no makeup look.
Select the one that looks closest to wearing no makeup look. 4 Tips from the Pros
For best results with primer and foundation, try these strategies.
•Ali recommends applying products to a clean face. Harmful particles can clog up the skin’s oil and sebaceous glands that normally keep the skin looking moist with a nice sheen.
Ali recommends applying products to a clean face. Harmful particles can clog up the skin’s oil and sebaceous glands that normally keep the skin looking moist with a nice sheen. •A tinted moisturizer may provide enough coverage. “For good skin without blemishes, I recommend the use of a tinted moisturizer, which will even out skin tone but give very little coverage,” Brehm tells WebMD.
A tinted moisturizer may provide enough coverage. “For good skin without blemishes, I recommend the use of a tinted moisturizer, which will even out skin tone but give very little coverage,” Brehm tells WebMD. •At around age 35, some makeup experts suggest that women start using a good face serum. A serum can boost the effects of moisturizer or primer because its smaller molecules penetrate the skin deeper. Along with a primer, it may help you look younger.
At around age 35, some makeup experts suggest that women start using a good face serum. A serum can boost the effects of moisturizer or primer because its smaller molecules penetrate the skin deeper. Along with a primer, it may help you look younger. 
Carol Bryant
Writer/Blogger & SocialMedia/PR Guru
Professional Writer and Editor
